88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage (2024)

Travel|88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage

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88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage (1)

A famed route on the smallest of Japan’s four main islands offers breathtaking views and an array of lessons on history, culture and generosity.

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Photographs and Text by Marta Giaccone

Three weeks into my trek, as I ascended a steep path toward Yokomine-ji, the 60th of 88 temples along the Shikoku pilgrimage, I found myself enveloped by an unforgiving fog. In an instant, the colorful forest around me — mostly red cedar trees and fern bushes — faded, leaving me in a world of muted gray. Able to make out only the faintest shapes in the surrounded trees, I was convinced that I’d stumbled into an eerie fairy tale.

Quietly, in the distance, I began to hear a chorus of small bells. Then, suddenly, the party of accidental musicians came into view: a large group of Japanese pilgrims who, coming toward me, all stopped neatly in line to let me walk past.

Within an hour, the fog had begun to lift. Within two, it was gone entirely, replaced by an equally unforgiving midday sun. In the newfound clarity of daylight, I began to wonder: Had the courteous band of fellow pilgrims existed only in my mind?

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88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage (2)

The pilgrimage on Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, is a 750-mile route that links 88 Buddhist temples, each of which claims a connection to Kukai, a celebrated monk — posthumously known as Kobo Daishi — who, after returning from a trip to China in the ninth century, founded one of the major schools of Buddhism in Japan.

After Kukai’s death in 835, wanderers began making pilgrimages to the sites on Shikoku that were affiliated with his life and work: his birth and burial places, the caves where he meditated, the sites of various religious rites. Later, these sites were linked, and the temples and shrines were formally numbered.

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88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage (2024)

FAQs

How much does it cost to walk the Shikoku 88? ›

There are many ways to make the Shikoku pilgrimage based on one's schedule, physical health and budget. Walking: This will take about 6 weeks (average 30km/day) and cost about 400,000 yen. This is the most traditional way, but it takes the most time and money.

How long does it take to walk the 88 temples of Shikoku? ›

The pilgrimage is traditionally completed on foot, but modern pilgrims use cars, taxis, buses, bicycles, or motorcycles, and often augment their travels with public transportation. The standard walking course is approximately 1,200 kilometres (750 mi) long and can take anywhere from 30 to 60 days to complete.

What is the 750-mile route of the Shikoku Pilgrimage? ›

Shikoku: At a Glance

For hundreds of years, a 750-mile pilgrimage route has circled this mountainous island, connecting 88 separate temples and shrines that claim connection to Daishi, also known as the Great Master.

How hard is the Shikoku Pilgrimage? ›

Try this 698.5-mile loop trail near Naruto, Tokushima. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 299 h 58 min to complete. This is a very popular area for backpacking, birding, and hiking, so you'll likely encounter other people while exploring.

How long does it take to hike Shikoku pilgrimage? ›

The Shikoku Pilgrimage is traditionally walked, and many still chose to go on foot. It takes on average 45 days to complete the circuit this way. Others choose to travel by bicycle, motorcycle, car, or bus. Some pilgrims choose to do it in chunks, taking years to finish their journey.

How do I prepare for Shikoku pilgrimage? ›

Consider packing a lightweight backpack with essentials such as water, food, a first aid kit, and appropriate clothing for the weather. Respect local customs: The Shikoku Henro is a religious journey, and it's important to show respect to the temples, the local communities, and other pilgrims.

What is the most beautiful pilgrimage in Japan? ›

Kumano Kodo

Steeped in lush greenery, The Kumano Kodo is one of the world's most renowned pilgrimage routes. Winding through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula, an area straddling Wakayama, Nara, Osaka and Mie prefectures, the route has walked by pilgrims on their quest for enlightenment for over a millennium.

Why do people do the Shikoku Pilgrimage? ›

Shikoku Pilgrims, known as ohenro-san, undertake the journey around Shikoku island to atone for sins, to pray for health and success, in pursuit of enlightenment, and to experience the mysteries of Japan's least developed island.

Why is Shikoku famous? ›

Shikoku is most famous for its 88 Temple Pilgrimage, a 1400 kilometer route established by Kukai, the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan. The pilgrimage circles through sweeping valleys, past tranquil streams, and secret rural communities, up to misty mountaintop shrines and self-realization.

Are there trains on Shikoku? ›

You can travel around Shikoku's four prefectures (Kagawa, Ehime, Tokushima, and Kochi) using six railway companies and see the sights of Shodo Island on ferries and buses.

What is the longest walking pilgrimage? ›

Peace Pilgrim
  • Length: 43,500 miles (70,000 km)
  • Date: January 1953 – July 1981.
  • Miles walked per month: 128 miles (206 km)

What is the longest pilgrimage in Japan? ›

The pilgrimage on Shikoku, the smallest of Japan's four main islands, is a 750-mile route that links 88 Buddhist temples, each of which claims a connection to Kukai, a celebrated monk — posthumously known as Kobo Daishi — who, after returning from a trip to China in the ninth century, founded one of the major schools ...

Are there bears on Shikoku? ›

In Japan, there are two kinds of bears. Black bears are found on Honshu, the largest of the country's four main islands, and on Shikoku. Brown bears live on the northern island of Hokkaido. Adult black bears stand 1 to 1.5 meters tall and weigh from 60 to 120 kilograms.

What is the best part of the Shikoku pilgrimage? ›

You visit the most attractive and spectacular temples, particularly those associated with Kūkai, founder of the pilgrimage, and Emon Saburō, the first pilgrim. Shikoku is a big place, and to see everything in eight days calls for busy days.

What is the best time to visit Shikoku? ›

Spring is the most popular pilgrim season. Most consider it the optimal time of the year to traverse Shikoku's outdoors for its moderate temperatures and beautiful scenery.

How much does it cost to visit a shrine in Japan? ›

Kyoto's World Heritage Shrines and Temples
Kamigamo ShrineFree¥500 for special admission.
Kōsanji (temple)¥1,000Separate admission fee of ¥500 in autumn.
Tenryūji (temple)¥500 (Garden)Additional admission fee of ¥300 to visit the halls.
Ryōanji (temple)¥600
Honganji (temple)Free
12 more rows
Nov 6, 2023

How long does it take to walk the Kumano Kodo? ›

The most popular Kumano Kodo route is the Nakahechi path. It is quite short at about 40km but a lot of it is on hilly forest paths. Most people would take three days to walk that route. If you want to spend 10 days or more walking you might consider adding on a further walk south to Nachi.

Where do you fly into for Shikoku pilgrimage? ›

How to get to Shikoku. From Japan's major airports, including Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto, take a flight to Tokushima Awaodori Airport.

How much does it cost to visit a temple in Japan? ›

You can enter many temples and shrines for free. Generally, admission to notable temples, shrines, and castles is around 500 yen. Museums can cost around 1,000-2,000 yen.

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